“How do I know what color my brows are?” and “How do I know what shade of brow pencil or gel to buy?” and “should my eyebrows be darker than my hair?” are questions that go down as some of the most highly asked in the history of E.L.F. And the thing is—we get it.

Unlike hair, which you usually have a lot more of—making it easier to pinpoint your true color—brows are smaller, more subtle and generally just a bit tougher to target in terms of what your *actual* shade is. What’s more, there isn’t really a vast array of shades your brows might be, and while that seems like it may be more helpful, it can sometimes make it harder to find your perfect shade. Below, we’re breaking down the brow journey so that you not only know your shade and undertone, but you’ll get familiar with how to apply brow products to compliment your brows.

Say it with us: not all hair colors and brow colors are created equal! Your brow color most likely *won’t* match your hair color perfectly (and really, it shouldn’t), but looking at the shade of your hair is a great benchmark for determining your brow shade. As a general rule of thumb, your brow shade should compliment your hair color.

If you have lighter hair, opt for a softer, more natural-looking shade within the blonde to brunette family. If your hair is dark brown to black, go for something in the darker brown to black family. For those with auburn and strawberry-blonde hair, brow shades that are light red, blonde, or very light taupe-browns usually look natural and blend into brows with ease. The goal here isn’t to match your hair color exactly, it’s to find a shade that looks natural and enhances the brow shade you already have!

What’s worse than picking out a brow shade in artificial lighting, only to catch a glimpse of yourself outside and your brows are the only thing you can notice? The simple and easy hack to avoid crazy caterpillar brows is to test shades out in natural lighting. Yes, this can be tough if you’re in a Target or Ulta, but bring a little compact mirror and walk towards the front of the store to check out your brows in natural light. Sure, it may sound a little nuts, but trust us when we say that seeing brows shaded in with a pencil or gel in the most natural of lighting (e.g. outside or near a window!) is the easiest way to find a match that looks genuine and natural.

Before you go in with your new brow shade, it’s best to start with groomed eyebrows to get the most out of your look. Start by grabbing a clean spoolie eyebrow brush and brush your arches directly up. If you see any hairs that are particularly longer than the others, gently trim them so that they fall in line with the rest of your brows and achieve more of an even, streamlined shape. Next, take the same spoolie brush and brush brows slightly up and out, making sure you’re following the natural direction your brows grow in.

If you’re going for a laminated look, use our all new Brow Laminating Gel to get lifted, sculpted, laminated brows that won’t budge. If the laminated look isn’t for you, skip this step and go straight to filling in brows with your desired makeup product. Regardless of the type of brow product you’re using, go in with short, feathery strokes to achieve a natural, filled-in and full brow look.